Pruning Basics
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Note: This
tip sheet is for general guidance only. Contact your
County Extension agent or land grant university for
additional information on pruning techniques. |
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Why
prune?
There are many different reasons to prune or to remove selected
parts of a plant. They could be to train or direct growth,
control size and shape, improve health, increase landscape
effect, improve growth for flowers and fruits, or for safety
reasons. |
When
should you prune?
The best time to prune varies with each plant species. Plants
that flower during the spring normally are pruned after they
bloom. If you were to prune before bloom you would remove
the flower buds. Summer blooming plants generally are pruned
during the winter when they are dormant. Pruning should not
be done in the late summer or fall because the re-growth
makes them more susceptible to damage from the cold. If the
plants are not being grown for their flowers, the best time
to prune may be in the winter dormant period. Removing of
dead, diseased or damaged branches should be done as soon
as possible, no matter what time of year. Pruning should
be done year-round as needed.
What are the right
tools for pruning?
Picking the right tool for the job will mean less work
for you and ensures that the plant will heal more quickly.
The following is a list of different types of tools and
what their uses are:
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Hand pruners are used for small jobs and
cut up to ¾" in diameter. Pruners are available
with either bypass or anvil blades. (See
what is an anvil and/or bypass pruner.) |
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Loppers have longer handles, increasing
your reach and leverage for those hard to cut branches. Loppers
are for larger jobs and can cut up to 2" in diameter. |
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Hedge shears are ideal for nearly all hedges
and shrubs, except for larger woody branches. |
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Pruning saws help remove stems you cannot
cut with hand pruners or lopping shears. |
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Pole pruners help reach high out-of-reach
branches up to 2" in diameter. They are ideal where ladders
would be inconvenient or would damage the tree. They consist
of pruner blades mounted on long wooden or aluminum poles.
A cord or chain is used to activate the spring-loaded blades. |
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Pole saws are a cross between pole pruners
and pruning saws. They help to get at out-of-reach branches
up to 3" in diameter. |
What
is an anvil and/or bypass pruner?
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Hand pruners and loppers are available
with either bypass or anvil blades. Bypass blades are sharpened,
curved, and overlap, similar to scissor blades. Bypass blades
are ideally used for new green growth. Anvil blades have
a straight upper blade that cuts against a broad, flat blade.
Anvil blades are most efficient for dry, hard and old growth. |
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What
is the proper cut?
Proper cuts require good, sharp pruning equipment.
Make all cuts clean and smooth and do not leave stubs or
remove bark. In most cases, you should cut back each stem
to a bud or branch. Do not make the cut too close or too
far away because most new growth will come from this area.
Select the branch to be pruned and cut it back to ½" above
an outer bud or to the collar area of a branch about half
the size of the main branch that connects a 45° angle.
Your cuts should be slanted upward at about 45° to
prevent water from collecting in the cut.
When cutting branches more than 1 ½" in
diameter, use a three-part cut. Make the first cut from
below about 6-12 inches out of the trunk. Make the second
cut from above, about 3-9 inches down the branch, until
the branch falls away. Then cut the remaining limb at a
45° angle so the bark collar remains intact.
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- Select the proper tool for each job.
- Know the proper time to prune your plants.
- Make your cuts at an angle to prevent water buildup.
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- Make one cut to remove large limbs.
- Underestimate the importance of pruning for your
plants' health and appearance.
- Forget the proper place and angle to make your
cuts when you prune.
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